Japan

Restaurants:

Many restaurants only have Japanese signs outside, so if you find recommendations from blogs online, plan a back-up in case you can't find your preferred one when you arrive.

• Teppanyaki Colza (upscale; Ginza) -

  • In Short: Delicious teppanyaki with vegetarian option

  • At Length: Tucked away downstairs, this restaurant will remind you of Benihana (if you're typical American) except it's real. The chef cooks in front of you and "performs" while doing so. The food is delicious, and they have a vegetarian menu which is hard to come by in Tokyo. Get the teppanyaki ice cream.

• Gomei (fine dining; Ginza) -

  • In Short: The best beef you'll ever have

  • At Length: This was a very expensive meal but worth every penny. It may have been the best beef we have ever eaten. The meat even comes with its own pedigree. The chef prepares everything in front of you and explains what he's doing as he goes. His English was good. At the end of the meal, they prepare green tea table-side, which is good to try.

• Kyubey, Keio Plaza Hotel (upscale; Shinjuku) -

  • In Short: Upscale sushi - very expensive but high quality, served traditionally

  • At Length: We had a great time here. The chef was very nice and though he wasn't fluent in English he tried creative ways to communicate with us, which we really appreciated. We tried shrimp that was alive seconds before we ate it..talk about fresh. Everything was prepared just-so. The setting felt very authentic as well. The meal was very expensive but that's to be expected.

• Tokyo Mentsudan (casual; Shinjuku) -

  • In Short: Delicious udon noodles + tempura, and inexpensive! Very casual, a good lunch spot.

  • At Length: A great spot for lunch in Shinjuku. The udon here is delicious. They make the noodles in house and they are the perfect texture. The broth is good too. We also liked the tempura. The price is inexpensive, which is a plus in Tokyo. The vibe is fine - it's very casual, a fast in and out type place. People don't linger over their lunches here.

• Shinjuku Kakekomi Gyoza Kabukichou (casual; Shinjuku) -

  • In Short: Excellent gyoza, inexpensive, very small restaurant

  • At Length: Delicious gyoza! There are lots of options (for gyoza; not much else) - good vegetarian ones too. It is not expensive. Service is fast. It is a very small space, but there's an upstairs too so don't be discouraged if they look full.

• Ginza Kagari, Echika fit Ginza (casual; Ginza metro station) -

  • In Short: Delicious Ramen

  • At Length: There's no time like the present to eat ramen in the metro! This ramen is unique because it has a creamy chicken base. It's delicious. Go at lunch time before they open because there will be a line.

• Okonomiyaki Yai Yai (casual; Omote-Sando) -

  • In Short: Delicious, greasy, fattening, comfort food - try it once

  • At Length: We stumbled upon this place, lucky us. Okonomiyaki is probably really bad for you but it is so delicious, so try it once. The ambiance is fun here, and it's inexpensive. There's also a vegetarian option.

• Kimuraya (bakery; Ginza) -

  • In Short: Great example of a Japanese bakery. Go and try a little of everything.

• Gaslight Eve (upscale; Ginza) -

  • In Short: An old-world bar

  • At Length: Small bar with award-winning female mixologist. Decor is lots of dark wood, very formal with odd old-English and American figurines behind the bar. Smoking is permitted and it is a very small space.

• Turret Coffee (near Tsukiji Market) -

  • In Short: Small coffee shop with American-style coffee. So delicious.

• Streamer Coffee Company (in Shibuya) -

  • In Short: Small coffee shop with American-style coffee and baked goods. Turret is better but this is good too.

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Hotels:

• Hotels are very expensive in Tokyo and minute in size. If you are on a budget, don't be surprised if you have a hard time laying out your suitcase in the room, it will likely be cramped. Pick the neighborhood you want to stay in - we recommend Shinjuku, Ginza, or Omote-Sando, and spend your time outside the hotel.

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Activities:

• Take the metro everywhere - it is clean, efficient, and inexpensive

• Samurai Museum - Short and sweet, they will make you take a tour, but it's worth it with lots of factoids. Charming museum will take about an hour, maybe less. There's a show if you're there at the right time, which is short and entertaining.

• Meiji Jingu Shrine - Set in a beautiful park, it's a really nice walk

• Tokyo National Museum - Beautiful museum with lots to see. When we went there was a free calligraphy class.

• Hozomon Gate - Neat to see and lots of good souvenir shopping nearby

• Rikugien - This is a Japanese-style garden/park that is serene and so pretty. We stumbled upon it and are so glad we did

• Sumida Hokusai Museum - A small museum featuring Hokusai's life and work. They have other exhibits too.

• Tsukiji Fish Market - We didn't do this but have heard it is worthwhile. Book a tour in advance of your trip. We did however, eat sushi at one of the places on the outskirts of the market, and it was so good (but pricey). Get the fatty tuna.

  • Also, go to the market nearby Tsukiji​ metro station to try all different types of food.

• Cat cafe - Worth the experience, but don't stay too long because they charge you by 6 minute increments like a lawyer!

• Neighborhoods:

  • Ginza - High-end shopping district, beautiful to see and window shop​

  • Omote-Sando and Harujuku - Funky fashions, feels like Palo Alto

  • Shinjuku - Touristy area with Godzilla and Samurai Museum

  • Shibuya - Go for a few minutes to see the famous hectic-but-organized street crossing

  • Naka-Meguro - Apparently this is really beautiful in the spring when the cherry blossoms are out

  • Shimo-Kitazawa - Further away from downtown but a cool vibe, more hipster

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Skip:

• Piss Alley - Lots of tiny 3-4 seat restaurants. Surprisingly expensive and underwhelming.

• Golden Gai - Lots of tiny 3-4 seat bars, fun for a minute

• Tempura - Not as good as you expect it to be, at least not where we tried it; better to have it as part of your udon.